Power Steering Hand Pump Installation Guide

1263446 – Steering Motor Instruction Guide

FOR TRACTORS WITH ONE OR TWO POWER CYLINDERS

Some applications have steel lines. Installation works best by removing line brackets, bending lines slightly, installing lines on motor, and reinstalling line brackets.

1263446 Old Steering Motor1263446 New Steering Motor

 

IMPORTANT – PLEASE READ! Installation Instructions

Enclosed is the power steering unit you ordered. Industry statistics show that 95% of all hydraulic units returned are due to improper usage and failure to follow the installation guidelines. To ensure the best possible performance of your new unit, please read the instructions below carefully.

  • Purge the complete hydraulic system, clean out the reservoir, and change filters. Then add clean premium grade oil to your system prior to installing the unit.
  • Do not disassemble or attempt to modify this product, as doing so may cause damage to the steering unit, possible serious malfunctions in the hydraulic system or even a dangerous loss of steering ability.
  • Use the correct fittings and parts when connecting the steering unit. All hoses and fittings should be correctly aligned according to the oil flow for this unit. Ensure that all lines are free from sharp bends with no hose kinks, as this can restrict flow and cause loss of steering ability.

FAILURE TO COMPLY WITH THE ABOVE WILL INVALIDATE YOUR WARRANTY & POTENTIALLY CAUSE SERIOUS DAMAGE.

PLEASE NOTE: SOME APPLICATIONS MAY REQUIRE SLIGHT EXPECTED MODIFICATIONS. PLEASE CONTACT US IF THIS IS THE CASE OR IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS.

Combine Maintenance Checklist

Fall harvest is around the corner. Before you hit the field, give your combine a once-over with this 12-point checklist.

  • Clean the machine of dust and dirt for better operation, and to help spot wear and potential problems.
  • Attach headers to combine and make sure they work, checking height and contour controls.
  • On the grain table header, inspect sickle blades and guards, and inspect teeth in augers and reel.
  • On the corn head, inspect gathering chains, and sprockets, and adjust width of stripper plates. Check and adjust drive chains. Remember: Row-unit gearboxes operate as mini-transmissions and need to be checked once a year. Refill with grease or oil depending on age and brand of corn head.
  • Check all belts for wear and replace as needed.
  • Check all chains and bearings for wear; replace chains that can’t be adjusted or tensioned correctly.
  • For axial combines, inspect rotor and concave, checking wires for damage and bars for wear.
  • Check unloading system auger. If edges are sharp like a razor blade, replace.
  • Perform service checks: engine oil, fuel filter, air cleaner, and hydraulic oil.
  • Grease all points per operator’s manual. If a fitting doesn’t take grease, stop and find out why.
  • Safety first … and last. Inspect all lights, flashers and reflectors for travel by road.

Fine-tuning the combine harvester

It is important to remember that warm temperatures can throw up a few unusual hazards for combines. Engines become hotter and risk overheating, while the fire hazard increases greatly as dust builds up in and around the hardest-working parts.

Running gear is another key concern with tyre pressures playing a major role in how well your machine performs. As the harvest progresses over the next few weeks, the following tips should help keep belts and pulleys on the move.

Check your tyres

“Time, weather and crop constraints make it essential that machinery is ready for use. Leaving checks until the last minute can result in unexpected machine downtime,” according to Michelin’s technical manager, Gordon Brookes.

He says that during previous harvests tyres may have suffered accidental damage, leaving them with bulges, cuts or tears. Checking the tread area and sidewalls right down to the wheel trim helps detect problems as soon as possible

Long periods of inactivity can leave tyres with a ‘flat spot’ due to one section of the casing being deflected, creating massive vibrations on the road.

To combat this, mark the affected area of the tyres, move the combine into direct sunlight with other sections of the tyres deflected.

If possible, inflate the tyres above your standard operating pressure for a couple of hours, while ensuring the manufacturer’s maximum inflation pressure is not exceeded. Warming the tyres in the sunlight will prompt the casing to return to its normal shape.

Other issues to consider are maximum cyclic load in the field and whether the combine will be used on side slopes or intensively on the roads.

If you need new tyres, or a new machine, take tyre choice seriously. Tyre choice can make the difference between a good harvest and a great one.

Is your combine too wide for the road or gateways, and would a narrower tyre speed up the harvesting process?

If so, there are now tyres for combines that are narrower but have a greater contact with the ground. For example, a Michelin 900/60 R32 conventional tyre assembly could be replaced by a Michelin IF 800/70 R32 assembly, giving a 15pc larger footprint while making the combine 200mm narrower.

Rear tyres can also impact the efficiency of the combine, particularly in wet weather, but are more commonly neglected. Rear tyres should be operated appropriately in line with manufacturer recommendations. It’s therefore important to allocate the same time specifying rear tyres as you would the front set.

Keep a regular routine

Once the harvest starts the aim should be a regular combine maintenance routine. Carrying out this well-rehearsed routine in the morning rather than at night, with the exception of cleaning off the chaff and dust.

Some operators argue that for certain jobs, for example greasing, the grease will travel more effectively in around warm bearings than cold ones. This is a fair point, but the main thing to remember is to get into the habit of doing all the vital checks at a given time in the day to help you remember them all.

Essential daily checks

The most important steps in maintenance are greasing all the nipples, checking the air filters for cleanliness and adjusting the chains for tightness.

Every morning, you should grease all 10-hour nipples. A good habit to get into is doing a couple of related jobs in one sequence.

For example, when filling the machines with fuel, check both engine and hydraulic oil levels, and then check the radiators to see if they have sufficient water – critical during these long, hot days.

Stone traps do not necessarily need to be checked every day if the crop is generally clean, but in modern combines access to the stone trap is simple so it may be worth taking the 10 seconds needed to have a look.

The header is obviously a very important part of the combine and contains a lot of moving parts.

Every day you need to look for any serious damage to the knives, skids or fingers. The wobble box should be getting a full inspection in a pre-season maintenance programme at your local dealer or in your own garage.

A wobble box working for around 200 hours per season will generally last for anything from eight to 10 years depending on the operator.

Other checks

Every two days you should check the air filters for cleanliness, grease any 25-hour nipples or 50-hour nipples, and check chain tensions – especially the feeder house chains.

On some machines the feeder house chains sit on pieces of timber that look similar to roof slats. Over time, the chains can wear into these timbers with the result being the chains can slacken.

As well as monitoring the chains for slackness, the timbers themselves will need to be replaced periodically so keep a close eye on them. Watch out for broken or bent chain reels on the intake as well.

Once-a-week checks include emptying the stone traps when combining trouble-free crops. Other common parts that tend to wear out over time include bearings, chains, belts, sprockets, sickle sections and injector lines. A good visual inspection is key.

Check belt tensions for wear and tear. How do you know if a belt is slack?

First of all, switch off the engine if you are doing any hand inspections. You should only be able to get half a twist by hand on a belt that is properly tensioned.

If you can twist a belt all the way around, 360 degrees, it needs to be tensioned to prevent excessive wearing.

Tools and spares

A lot of contractors these days have service vans in which they carry all their tools and spare parts. A number of grease guns, a wrench set and a socket set are three essentials.

A generator/welder combination is also useful to patch up small problems.

Parts that should be kept in stock include a full set of belts for the combine; a belt-tightener pulley; connector links, half links and chains; sickle sections and guards for the cutterbar; drive chains for the heads; and fingers for the header auger.

Engine and hydraulic oil, assorted bearings, bolts and nuts, and a supply of welding rods are useful too.

Rat trouble

A modern combine can still be brought to its knees by a rat.

Dealers tell horror stories each year about contractors spending €300,000 on a new combine only to not even bother cleaning it thoroughly when the harvest finishes.

The trouble is that it will be sitting in a shed over winter with plenty of grains waiting to be devoured by rats. When this grain is eaten the rats will then start eating wires.

The moral of the story is that when the harvest is done give the combine a good cleaning with an air compressor to blow out any debris that could attract vermin.

How to buy a combine

The combine harvester is probably one of the most important inventions in the agricultural industry as it helps farmers save serious time and labour costs at harvest.

However, due to their sheer size and complex technology, combines do not come cheap. The price, depending on the combine class, can easily exceed half a million dollars. Hence it is certainly not an investment farmers take lightly.

Therefore, if you are in the market to purchase one for your operations, it is crucial to know what to look for and points to consider before committing to a potentially life changing decision.

First of all, what are you expecting out of your harvester?

A good harvesting operation should ensure:

  • A timely harvest
  • Maximum grain in the bin
  • An optimal throughput
  • Harvested products are of the best quality
  • Harvest is undertaken with least amount of losses
  • An economical and reliable operation
  • Modern grain harvesting machines operating in Australia are all rotary or hybrid-rotary machines. Combines with walker-type separators have all but been superseded and hence will not be considered in this piece.

1. KNOW YOUR CLASSES

In the ‘good old days’ of walker-type machines with tangential-feed cylinders, combine capacity was practically dependent on and measured or rated by cylinder and walker width.

That all changed when axial flow ‘rotary’ designs came on the scene after 1977 and these have eclipsed cylinder machines.

Nowadays combine capacity is largely dictated by engine power and cleaning shoe area.

So what are combine classes and what dictates which classes a combine should fall under?

As a rule of thumb, the higher the power of the harvester, the higher the class. For example, Case IH’s Axial Flow 6130 which offers 320hp falls under Class Six, while Claas’ Lexion 750 with 442hp sits under Class Nine.

2. CHOOSE YOUR BRAND WISELY

Given the time pressures at harvest, it is critical that the machine be reliable. This means choosing a brand with a reputable product backup and dealer performance.

Think well-known, tried and tested brands such as John Deere, New Holland and Case IH which have a wide network of dealers meaning backup and parts won’t be a problem.

Make sure your dealership is not too far away should you run into any problems and that they have a good backup of parts.

Some brands might even have mobile service trucks in selected regions come harvest time for 24 hour services should problems occur. Just be sure to ask the question when it’s time to buy.

3. GRAIN HEADER > COMBINE CAPACITY

A simple but very important rule to remember is: a combine’s capacity should never be more than the gathering head can digest.

As harvesting starts from the front, gathering systems are critically important in the overall scheme of grain harvesting and should be taken into consideration when purchasing your harvester.

Some might think the head is not a processor but consider this example: In some conditions a stripperhead can thresh out more than half the grain right at the front. Since the stripper head captures only the ears, crop characteristics are critical for its performance.

While stripper heads can be useful in no-till conservation farming because straw is left intact, anchored and standing, there can be a serious gathering loss penalty with a stripper head in cereals.

Types of grain headers:

  • Auger type or “tin” fronts. These headers are equipped with a reciprocating knife cutter bar with a metal or plastic revolving reel which makes the crop fall into the head. A cross auger then pulls the crop into the throat of the harvester.
  • Draper type heads. A fabric or rubber apron takes the place of the cross auger on auger type headers which allows faster feeding into the processor for better threshing performance.
  • Windrow pickup heads. These feature spring-tined pickups, usually attached to a heavy rubber belt. They are used for crops that have already been cut and placed in windrows or swaths
  • Stripperheads. This header features a rotating rotor fitted in the front of the header which strips grain from the crop as the combine moves the head forwards.
  • Crop specific heads. For best harvest performance, many crop species require their own purpose-built heads. Examples include corn, sunflower, cotton (picker heads), rice, soybean and sorghum.

4. MATCH THE PROCESSOR TO YOUR CROP

The combine you choose relies heavily on the crops you’re harvesting and the combine’s main activity hub – the processor and whether the configuration suits your needs.

Here is a general overview of different combine processor configurations on the market to give you a basic idea:

  • The New Holland combine series has a wider front elevator for better feeding into the twin rotors compared to single rotor machines.
  • AGCO’s Gleaner combines have tangential feed into their transverse mounted processing rotor.
  • Claas retains tangential feed into its APS Processor with three tangential cylinders up front, feeding into either walkers or two axially oriented separating rotors. This system is well suited for long-strawed crops and higher moisture conditions.
  • John Deere and Case IH’s axially- aligned processing rotors use guide vanes on the top of the rotor casing to direct the crop backwards.

The concave grates, on which the threshing drum beats to create the threshing action required may need to be changed for different crops but all have clearance adjustability.

Many latest combine harvester models have automatic in-cab adjustment of various settings such as concave clearance and shoe openings to match the pre-selected crop.

Always check the settings as an over aggressive processor and incorrect concave clearances can lead to grain damage. The faster the rotor speed and the tighter the concave clearances, the greater the damage.

Broken grain doesn’t make it up into the grain tank so yield is reduced. Some models even have grain damage sensors which are usually based on video camera frame- grab assessment.

In any event, occasionally checking tailings return flow is essential to see if the returns are grain-rich or residue-rich and whether there is excessive cracked grain in the subsample.

The greater the straw breakup by the processor, the heavier the load in the cleaning shoe which leads to shoe losses over the back.

Modern machines have grain loss monitors, but be aware these only measure relative loss. It is recommended that you periodically get out of the machine to check the ground for actual losses.

5. CHECK THE GRAIN TANK, AUGER AND UNLOADING TIME

Modern combine harvester designs have ‘hungry boards’ to hold a maximum amount of grain, up to 14,100 litres (400 bushels), in the tank before unloading. Ideally the boards should be capable of being closed to protect the load in a rain event.

Check if the unloading auger has plenty of reach to get out past the widest grain head you plan to use.

Unloading rate is also another important consideration. Every minute counts, so more than four minutes of unloading time is wasted time.

6. MANAGE WASTE ACCORDINGLY

What do you plan to do with the waste from your harvesting operation? The answer will dictate what you should check for at the back of the harvester.

Usually it is desirable to spread the discharge evenly to the same full width of the gathering head to facilitate subsequent paddock operations.

If on the other hand you bale straw or burn, you may want the effluent dropped in a reasonably tight windrow.

Most modern machines nowadays offer a wide range of residue management options. Whether you want the waste to be spread wide or into windrows, a push of a button does it for you.

7. RIGHT TYRES EQUAL A HAPPY HARVEST

A 400 bushel bin full of wheat weighs some 12 tonnes- add that to the weight of the combine itself and you’re talking about up to 30 tonnes all-up weight.

This can cause significant field compaction so choose your tyres based on load-carrying capability, mobility, ride, traction and stubble wear resistance. Another way to go is half or full tracks.

8. COMFORT AND CONTROL IS KEY

For anyone who’s been in a modern combine harvester’s operator station, you can agree it looks more like an aircraft cockpit than a harvester cab.

Controls are usually well-covered if you’ve chosen a reputable brand as you’ll be able to control almost everything, from the operation of the machine itself to the configuration of machine components to suit different crops.

There are even sophisticated auto-steering and monitoring systems built in to ensure farmers get maximum harvesting efficiency without doing much at all.

One important factor to consider is whether you’ll feel comfortable sitting in this confined space for hours on end. Check for creature comfort features such as storage; entertainment stations; and comfortable seats that provide maximum support.

9. CHECK FOR RAPID ACCESS AROUND THE MACHINE

In severe hot and windy conditions, it is crucial to be able to rapidly access working areas of the machine especially the engine bay.

On high fire risk days it can be necessary to check and blow down the engine bay on every round to avoid fire hazards caused by accumulated residues on hot spots like the exhaust manifold.

The worst crops for fire hazard are lentils, sunflowers, chickpeas and so on, but most crop dusts and residues can become flammable.

Extinguishing the risk of harvester fires

Combines are massively expensive machines but for one or two unfortunate operators each year disaster strikes and a fire can take hold.

When it comes to reducing the chance of having a combine blaze, there are two key points to remember: prevention and preparation.

We all remember the ‘fire triangle’ from our science days back in school, which states that you need three ingredients for a fire: fuel, heat and oxygen.

You can’t really do much about the heat from the engine and oxygen from the environment, so to prevent combine fires you have to be extra careful to remove the fuel – the grain and chaff – component. This is best done by keeping the machine clean.

Before you take the combine into the fields in the coming weeks, take the time to power-wash it to remove caked-on grease, oil and crop residue. Get into the good habit of blowing away any chaff, leaves and other crop materials from the machine at the end of each day’s work.

It’s a good idea, too, to remove any crop residue that has become wrapped around bearings, belts and other moving parts because these can generate significant heat after a few hours working. At the end of a long day harvesting don’t be tempted to park a hot, caked-up combine in the shed because smoldering hot spots can spell disaster.

Specific areas to blow out include:

• The engine – especially the exhaust manifold, turbocharger, muffler and exhaust pipe

• Hydrostatic pump, motor, hydraulic lines and tubes

• Brake and transmission housings

• Electrical components

• Engine drives and all moving parts

• Batteries and battery cables

• Straw chopper drive gear compartments

It is possible to eliminate some heat sources from the combine. For example, covering up hot exhaust surfaces and replacing any exposed electrical wiring could make safe your machine this summer.

Worn bearings and belts are two other culprits that can easily generate enough heat to make dust and crop residue catch fire. Get the combine operator to take control of his machine and check these areas daily.

Document the problems, make repairs as necessary and sign off on them as they are corrected so that you can keep on top of running costs. While the hope is that it doesn’t come to it, in the event of a combine fire you have to be prepared.

Always keep at least one fully charged and certified dry chemical fire extinguisher in the combine cab. Ideally you want to mount a second fire extinguisher on the outside of the machine that can be reached from ground level. The second one can be a water-charged extinguisher, but never use a water extinguisher on an oil fire.

You should recharge any partially discharged extinguishers before the season starts, otherwise they are about as useful as an Athens ATM.

Combine Maintenance Checklists

Pre-Harvest Combine Maintenance

Fall harvest is about to start. Give your combine a general check-up before you start by following this checklist.

  • Clean the machine of any dirt that has accumulated over the summer. This will help spot any potential wear and tear problems
  • Check your headers by attaching them to the combine and making sure they are functional.
  • Check the sickle blades and guards on the grain table header
  • Check the gathering chains, spookiest and width of stripper plates on the corn head
  • Verify all belts for wear and tear and replace what needs to be replaced
  • Verify all chains and bearings. If a chain can’t be adjusted correctly, replace it
  • If the edges of the unloading system auger are sharp, replace them.
  • Check engine oil
  • Check fuel filter
  • Check air cleaner
  • Check hydraulic oil
  • Use your operating manual and grease all points that need greasing
  • Check all lights and flashers. You need to be safe when you are on the road.

Post-Harvest Combine Maintenance

  • Take an overall look around and make a list of any visible problems
  • Dust off any debris. You need to do both the inside and the outside. If this is not done properly, it will attract rats that will ruin wires and other electrical components. Make sure you play close attention to the radiator and the inside of the cab
  • When you wash the combine, keep water off bearings and other moving parts. Wash the outside only.
  • Check the components inside the inspection plates
  • Check the concave and sieves for any problems
  • Verify the bearings and replace what is needed
  • Change oil
  • Change filters
  • Check the lights
  • Verify the cooling system and replace the coolant if necessary.
  • Verify the walkers for wear and tear and replace if needed
  • Verify the rotors
  • Verify the straw chopper
  • Verify all belts and tighten if necessary
  • Verify the feeder house chains
  • Grease all the fittings and chains according to your user manual
  • Fill up the fuel tank and add a fuel stabiliser for winter storage

Harvest Combine Daily Maintenance List

  • Verify chain and belt tension
  • Verify the feeder chain
  • Clear the rock trap
  • Oil the feeder reverse chain
  • Check the radiator and cooling system for debris
  • Check the rotary screen for missing screen segments
  • Lubricate the rotor drive bearings
  • Lubricate rotor driven pulley
  • Lubricate the tailings delivery auger bearings
  • Lubricate chaffer hangers
  • Lubricate unloading tube pivot
  • Lubricate the chains from the unloader drive, auger, tailings elevator and grain elevator
  • Check the tire pressure
  • Check the engine oil
  • Check coolant level
  • Drain water from the fuel filter water separator
  • Check lights and sounds

How You Can Troubleshoot Tractor Engine Problems

If you run a large or small farm, you know that having a working tractor is vital to success. However, as with anything that has an engine, tractors can break down. While you could hire a mechanic to come and look at the tractor or have it towed to a nearby repair shop, there is another option. The first two options will generally be fairly expensive and you will want to avoid any additional costs.

To save some money, you could look at troubleshooting your engine yourself. Of course, you need to know what you should look for and what sort of repairs you can realistically do at home if you do not have engine experience.

Identify The Type Of Tractor

The first step is to look at your tractor. You need to consider if it runs on gasoline or diesel. Diesel powered engines are more common in tractors, but there are a lot of newer models which run on gasoline because it is cheaper for farmers in the long-term. While you will save money with gasoline engines, they are usually more complicated and will have more parts which could cause a breakdown. Most of the troubleshooting you can do should be done on a diesel engine.

Once you have determined the type of tractor you have, you need to write down all of the abnormal symptoms you have noticed. You should make a note of anything that is out of the ordinary when you use or start the tractor. Even if you are unable to determine what is wrong with the tractor, this information will be valuable to a mechanic.

The Engine Will Not Turn Over

One of the biggest issues that you can face is that your engine will not turn over. When this happens, your engine will not come close to starting. You may hear some clicking when you turn the ignition, but that will be all.

The most common cause of this issue is the battery. It could be that the battery itself is dead or that the battery cables have been damaged. Corroded battery terminals can also cause this issue.

To fix this, you should look at the battery terminals and the cables first then test the battery. If you do not have a load tester, you can pull out the battery and have it tested at any auto parts store. Most of these stores will offer you free battery testing.

The Engine Turns Over But Does Not Start

If you have an engine that turns over but does not have enough juice to start, there are 2 problems you could be looking at. Both of these issues will relate to the fuel that is in your tractor.

The first step to rectify this will be to look at the fuel filter and the fuel lines which run from the fuel tank to the engine. If they are clogged, you will not be getting enough diesel into the engine to start it correctly. This lack of fuel will cut off the energy supply to the engine which stops it from starting. Cleaning and replacing the filter is often all that needs to be done to remedy this.

Another fuel-related issue could be that the fuel control lever on the engine itself has problems. This lever could be jammed closed which will stop the fuel from getting to the engine even when you have a clean filter. The first step to correct this will be to determine why it is hammed. If it still moves, you should consider spraying the moving parts with a lubricant to get it moving properly again.

The Engine Starts Then Dies After A Moment

If your tractor uses diesel, you do not want anything other than diesel in it. If you have an engine that starts but dies a moment later, there could be something else in your fuel. Diesel and gasoline ignite in different ways with diesel igniting under pressure. When the piston compresses the fuel and air mixture in the engine cylinder, it will automatically ignite. Gasoline will require an additional spark to ignite it which is why you have spark plugs in gasoline engines.

If you have this issue, you should take a sniff of the fuel tank. This might seem strange, but diesel and gasoline have very different smells. If you smell gas in the diesel tank, you need to flush out the fuel system and refill it with diesel.

The Engine Is Overheating

When your engine is overheating, the problem is generally going to be the cooling system. When this happens, you need to move away from the engine and look at the radiator.

A word of caution before you start and this is to never try opening your radiator cap when the engine is still hot. The coolant will be pressurized and very hot which can send the cap flying while releasing hot steam that can burn you. There are cases where radiator caps have gone flying through windows, high into the air and into people.

When you can check the radiator, you should see if there is any coolant in there. An empty radiator will not be able to do its job and the engine will overheat. You should not use tap water to fill the radiator as it has minerals which will generally clog the radiator and cause other problems. You should use a mixture of 50/50 distilled water and the correct antifreeze.

If the radiator fins are muddy or dirty, you should clean them using compressed air. Dirt fans will stop the radiator from achieving the low temperatures that you need. However, you have to be careful to not bend the fins when you clean them.

If any of this troubleshooting does not fix your problem, you will need to call a professional. You should keep a note of everything that you have tried as this will give them a good idea of where to start.