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Ford/New Holland parts

Ford Tractor Parts and New Holland Parts from TractorJoe

Are you worried about finding new Ford tractor parts for a reasonable price? Do other suppliers lack the New Holland parts you need? Well don’t worry because TractorJoe has got you covered. We sell only the best tractor parts for major brands like Ford and New Holland. Whether you need a new driveshaft, a new clutch, a new radiator for your Ford or New Holland tractor, TractorJoe has got what you need. To this day, the 2N, 8N, and 9N, are staples of American agriculture. The Ford Motor Company produced some of our country’s finest tractors, which is why people are still running them and coming to TractorJoe to get Ford tractor parts and NH parts direct to their door.

Start looking for the Ford tractor parts or NH parts you need right now by using our handy search tool. Simply choose your model from the dropdown above and we’ll show you our expansive list of new replacement parts. Here you will find a wide selection of parts for every type of tractor or machine made by Ford or New Holland. What happens if you can’t find the exact part your need? Not to worry- let us know by filling out our parts request form and we’ll ask our network of suppliers and yards if they can get it to you- even if it’s a used Ford or New Holland part. We’ll ship it direct to you, letting you save up to 70% off prices you’d pay at the New Holland dealer.

TractorJoe is the best place to purchase your Ford and New Holland parts because we sell only the highest quality replacement parts. Our parts are back by an industry leading warranty and we’ll also help you find answers to your replacement part questions.  Our customer support staff is the best around and you can ask questions in our Q&A community get help from experienced mechanics and enthusiasts. Did I mention prices? For all your Ford or New Holand parts needs, we sell them at up to 70% less than what you might pay at the dealer. On top of that, we’ll send it right your door using our fast and secure shipping service.

So get your Ford or New Holland tractor up and running as fast as possible by purchasing replacement parts from TractorJoe. We have quality products, great prices and the best support available anywhere!

Ford/New Holland Tractor History

In October 1917 tractor production was started by the Henry Ford and Son Company by building one thousand tractors for Canada and six thousand tractors for England to assist these countries during World War I with food production. These tractors had no identifications and they came to be known as MOM tractors, due to the fact that they had been built for the Ministry of Munitions in England. Henry Ford started producing this tractor in April 1918 for the U.S. market, the Fordson name was found on the upper radiator panel while the name of Henry Ford & Son was stamped into the fuel tank´s end. The name Fordson was the contraction of the company's name and by January 1918 it had been registered as a trademark.

A standard-tread tractor, the Fordson F tractor had around 19 belt horsepower as well as a 2-plow rating. It had a 4-cylinder, vertical Hercules engine which would start on gasoline and run on kerosene, the transmission was three speed and it had a worm-gear final drive. The engine, the final drive, and the transmission case worked as a frame. Magnets were used for the ignition, these were on the flywheel, and to cool the engine the water was circulated by a thermo-siphon system.

Henry Ford announced in March 1919 that he planned on starting a new company which would build cars as well as tractors, due to this the other Ford Motor Company stockholders began selling theirs to an unknown buyer. Later on, the buyer as revealed to be Henry Ford who was now the only owner of the enormous Ford Motor Company. The Henry Ford and Son Company was then folded into the Ford Motor Company and on the end of the fuel tank, the name was changed to Fordson. The production of Ford was moved in February 1921 from the Dearborn factors to the Rouge factory which was new and massive which was receiving iron ore from Ford´s mines, being delivered by Ford´s ships, on one end the tractors were delivered and assembled and on the other, Model T car parts. At around this time, Ford also began building the Fordson´s engine.

Tractor Safety Maintenance Tips

Better safe than sorry. Thinking ahead is the best way to be safe and avoid taking any chances. At least once a year, thoroughly inspect your tractor or any time when it has not been in use.

 

  • ROPS (Roll-Over Protection Structure) - Is there a cage on your tractor? Does it have any structural damage that needs to be repaired or replaced? Beware of signs of metal fatigue.

  • Shields/Guards - Make sure that all guards are in the proper place and are safely secured to your tractor.

  • Seat Safety Switch - Is your switch connected and operative? The second most frequent cause of deaths on farms which are tractor related is tractor runovers.

  • Brake System - Properly adjust your brakes and check the fluid levels.

  • Tire Pressure - Always make sure that the tire pressure falls within the range that is recommended.

  • Lights/Signals - All lights must be visible well as operations. Clean off any excess dirt and test them.

  • Hydraulic System - Look over all hoses and connections for any signs of wear or leaks. Make sure that all levels of fluid are correct.

  • Steering System - Is your steering pulling one way or the other? At high speeds, this can be quite dangerous.

  • Slow Moving Vehicle (SMV) Emblem - Do you have an SMV emblem that is located near the rear of the tractor, is clean and clearly visible to other drivers?

  • Cleanliness - Clean up any dirt, oil spill, or ice to prevent fire, potential falls, or any other safety hazard.

  • Fire Extinguisher - There should be a ten-pound fire extinguisher the is ABC dry rated and securely fastened in the operator's station or cab, it should be mounted in a way that makes it accessible from the ground. Once or twice per season, invert the fire extinguisher and shake them to guarantee that due to tractor vibration, the powder has not compacted.

  • First Aid Kit - A first aid kit should be fastened securely inside your tractor cab. Make sure that it is stocked to treat minor as well as major injuries, include gauze, bandages, disposable rubber gloves, antiseptics, and empty plastic bags.

Tractor Safety Practices

  • On top of regularly performing the safety check on your tractor, engaging in safe practices as you operate or tractor is even more important. This means that you must be aware of your surroundings as well as tale all the necessary precautions. Here are a few things to take into consideration for tractor safety:

  • No Riders - Never allow people to ride along in the tractor unless they are operating it alone. A tractor is designed for one person to operate it, carrying additional passengers is not safe.

  • Exercise Moderation and Patience - While moving your tractor at low speeds, keep the load low. As needed, use rear weight to balance the tractor.

  • Avoid Embankments and Ditches - The edge of a bank or ditch could be very weak and not able to support your tractor's weight. If you are not careful, you could easily roll over.

  • Be Careful on Hillsides or Slopes - When pulling out of a ditch, climbing hills or overloading the drawbar, upsets tend to happen. Look out for bumps, rocks or holes. For better balance keep your wheels spread as wide as is possible. Cautiously take uphill turns, and if we must climb a steep grade, attempt driving in reverse.

  • Hitch to Drawbar Only - Never hitch to your seat bracket or axle. The risk of upsetting the tractor backward can be dramatically increased if this is done. Smoothly engage the clutch and avoid accelerating suddenly.

 Questions from our clients

Question #1: What's the right tractor size?
Right now I'm looking at a few models. I'm thinking about buying a NH TC45 or TN55. Right now I'm looking at working ten acres of new pasture and I need a tractor that has the ability to mow some pretty thick growth. Right now the main thing is mowing but eventually, I might want to produce hay, as well. The biggest issue is keeping the weed in line.

So my main question is this: Will either one of these tractors have the power and ability to pull a 10 ft bush hog, the ones that are spec rated for a tractor with 50 horsepower? In addition to these choices, there's also a used batwing (15 feet in size) that I'm considering that also has a 50 hp rating. I want to keep the pasture mowed multiple times per year, and there's no especially heavy or tricky brush. Just maintenance to keep it from getting too thick. A salesman told me the TN55 should handle the work, even though it really is 42hp PTO. On top of this, I've been told the specs on bush hogs are quite often overstated, and that has me a bit worried.

What are your opinions on these options? Why?

Answer #1: Based on a few acres you're currently talking about, the truth is that you would be better off getting a quality 6-foot chopper that runs behind a TC. If you get to the point where you're moving from plain mowing and weed control to custom haying, then at that point take a serious look at the TN 65. Honestly, a 10' chopper is generally, frankly, too big to run on a mere 10 acres and that will end up running the tractor pretty hard. In regards to setting up the 15 ft batwing on the TN: don't even think about making that hookup! The TN won't be able to run it.

We find that using a 6 footer pulled behind a 65 does the job and can chop around 40-45 acres several times per year. This setup should be no problem for 10 acres and you should be able to take care of it in around a day.

Question #2: Regarding the heating element of a 2120 Ford NH
I own a 2100 series of FWD tractor and am relatively new to using it. Just got a new oil heating element and I want to know: can it be plugged in and left on for long periods of time? Like weeks or months? I was told at a dealership that is isn't recommended and have only plugged in for 20 minutes at a time. Is this right or does anyone else have a different experience with it?

Answer #2: From the feedback we have from owners, they have this model and have often left my factory freeze plug heater kept plugged in throughout most of the winter without unplugging or cycling it off at all. The tractor always starts right away and is set to go for whatever they need.

Question #3: New Holland 462 Disc Mower Replacement Discs
Our problem started near the end of just our second cut last year when 2/5 "turtles" spun off after the mower bar was stuck on an incline (this is the New Holland 462 model, by the way). We were able to finish the cut using just the last three discs. No damage to the engine, mounts, or any internal works. We really just need to replace the broken discs.

We called the place that normally takes care of all our work and the estimate was a jaw-dropping $2,000 to $4,000 just to replace two discs. That seems way too high. No bar damage, just a couple disc replacements. Have any insight on this?

Answer #3: You might want to consider doing it yourself, or double checking to see what the actual damage is. The truth is that if the mounting heads turn, then all you really need are the actual discs that the blades are then mounted on.

On the other hand, if you find that the mounting heads don't turn like they're supposed to, then you will need to separate the Kuhn oil-bath cutterbar before then making the necessary repairs. Taking on these repairs is doable but you have to be 100% sure there is no internal damage. Proper repairs to the oil bath and cutter bars takes a lot of work but is doable. The question based on that bid is: are you 100% absolutely sure there was no internal damage at all?

Even if there is, you should note that it's possible for you to buy a completely new bed for less than the high-end estimate you mentioned. At that point getting a new bed is the better choice because it runs the same price range and at that point at least everything is new.

Question #4: New Holland 850 Baler - what's with the valve block?
Last summer I purchased an 850 New Holland, and so far no complaints. In fact, it has actually worked quite well for me up to this point. However, I don't have an owner's manual so there is one thing I can't figure out. What is the purpose of the "valve" block, the one which all the hydraulic hoses from the tractor connect to? The steel lines appear to connect into this block and then feed out to the cylinders.

Answer #4: This block is there for pressure control. Specifically, it is there for controlling the pressure that is applied to the rear door, and therefore it controls how loose or tight the bail is going to be. You should be able to find an adjustment valve on the block so you can make any changes you want. On the big NH models, the pressure is controlled in the cab through computer systems, but you should still be able to look out the back window to see the gauge.

Question #5: NH 3930 fuel pump question.
How do you crank up the fuel on a 3930 New Holland Lucas fuel pump for better results?

Answer #5: The problem with this question is that the systems that make a tractor work aren't independent of one another. If you want more HP and are going to use your tractor for farming then you need to look at buying a much bigger tractor. Engine matches to the drive train, the hydraulic system, etc. If you up the HP on a model that isn't meant to run at a higher level then things will start breaking down. If you need a lot more HP then you need a bigger tractor.

Question #6: Having a New Holland T8040 tractor seat problem.
Anyone have a fix? I have a NH T8040 but the lateral isolator on the seat isn't working. The clip is set to the "engaged" position, but it won't move to the off position. Not big on the uncontrolled seat floating a bit side to side - how do you fix this to keep it from happening?

Answer #6: While not the same model, a similar problem popped up on the 8210 JD so the answer here might be relevant. To fix that owners took the four bolts that hold the seat down, unplugged any electric attachment, and then once you can pull the seat out and get a full look. A lot of the times it's something easy like pulling the plastic out of the lock lever or getting a little bit of tightening bolts or WD-40 to get it back where it needs to be. Hope this helps you!

Question #7: New Holland Loader numbering system question
Currently, I'm working with a 2000 Case-IH DX29 (the deluxe version that includes HST) along with 2 rear remotes. My IH dealer carries 4 different sizes of blue NH loaders and they use the previous (old) numbering system. The problem for me is that I can't remember what numbers would fit my tractor (12, 14, or 16, etc).

I'm noticing that they only have pinned on attachments for buckets but not the SS style of attachments. This loader are weathered but don't look like they were used. I might be able to get one of these bucket loaders cheap, but I'm not sure if they would fit the DX29 and of course customizing might void any warranty left. Anyone know how to make this work?

Answer #7: There is one huge problem with the scenario you're painting here. You mentioned that your tractor is a 2000 model, and if that's the case then it was never designed to use the curved arm or to install the popular 14LA or LX114 loaders. In later models, changes were made to the front axle and mounting, and these changes are what allow the 14LA to be installed, but only on tractors that were produced after 2004. If you want to run something off an old tractor, consider a supplemental 3rd party model designed for that type of work.

Question #8: New Holland super 68 square baler adjustment issue.
The strings on my hay bales aren't tight enough. The springs are good, but although every bale gets tied, the strings need to be tighter. They're too loose right now. How do I fix this?

Answer #8: You just need to tighten the springs that are alongside the bale chamber (look right behind the needle carriage).

Ford/New Holland Tractor Maintenance Guide

Ford/New Holland
Tractor Maintenance Guide
9 Tractor Parts To Check Monthly
Air Conditioning
  1. Does it turn on?
  2. Does it give full range of temperature options?
  3. Is air blowing at proper levels of intensity?
Alternator
  1. Does the engine run?
  2. If the engine runs, check voltage at battery without the engine running. A good battery will read ~12.6 volts.
  3. With the engine running, turn on your entire electrical load (e.g. AC, Heater Fans, Lights, etc.). At this point, a proper alternator should be sending ~14.6 volts to the battery.
Clutch Parts
  1. Does the clutch get stuck in any gear?
  2. Do you hear any grinding or creeping sounds?
Fuel Systems
  1. Check the Engine Oil Fluid Level
  2. Check the Coolant Fluid Level
  3. Check the Hydraulic Fluid Level
  4. Check all other fluid levels. Also check for pooling or leaking underneath the tractor. Lower fluid levels could indicate AN area from where leak is originating.
Hydraulic Pumps
  1. Is there an abnormal noise?
  2. Is the tractor operating sluggishly?
  3. Is the temperature of the fluid abnormally high? Refer To Your Tractor Manual For Normal Temperature Ranges.
Radiators
  1. Is it rusty?
  2. Are the bolts tightened?
  3. Does it need to be unclogged?
  4. Does it need to be replaced? If it is malfunctioning or if the tractor is operating with excessive straws or leaves in the air, you may need a new radiator.
Seats
  1. Is the seatbelt functioning?
  2. Are there any cracks in the seat?
  3. Do you need a new seat accessory?
Starters
  1. Is the battery charging properly?
  2. Are the electrical connections and wiring functioning properly?
  3. Is the solenoid properly attached?
  4. Is the motor functioning properly?
  5. Do you hear an abnormal noise?
Water Pumps
  1. Is the water pump leaking?
  2. Is the coolant properly working when you adjust the temperature to cold?
  3. Is the belt properly tightened?
Tires & Wheels
  1. Are the tires and wheels properly inflated?
  2. Are there cuts or breaks in the tread or sidewalls?